A remarkably long-lived vintage of an already long-lived wine, the 2013 is big, textural and voluptuous. The nose is intense and oak-driven: blackcurrant, caramelised rhubarb and tomato leaf lead under layers of warm tobacco and dark chocolate. A full-bodied, savoury palate shows surprisingly tight, chalky tannin (even after three years in oak and seven in the cellar) that promises great things for those with the patience to mature it further.